Pierre Negrin composed the house’s inaugural fragrance. His approach to perfumery is defined by restraint and a careful sense of presence. At a time when scent often insists, his compositions prefer to be discovered. We asked him to consider subtlety, measure and the difference between fragrance and excess.
What role should fragrance play in daily life?
The role of fragrance in life is to make it beautiful. It should make you feel good, joyful and confident.
Is perfume something to be noticed, or something discovered slowly? How much is enough?
It's a combination of both. You want to be noticed but not in an overpowering and intrusive way. If you bother your entourage you know it's more than enough.
Do you think modern life leaves room for subtle scent?
It depends on your lifestyle and your environment. There is definitely room for refinement and subtility in this world but you have to be in the right place with the right people to enjoy it.
When is it more elegant to wear nothing at all?
The closer you will get to a person (physically) and the more intimate you will be with some people the less fragrance you want to wear. In some special occasions you don't want to cover body odor.
Should scent ever enter a room before the person wearing it?
Sometime scent can be used as an armor to protect your inner circle or a "weapon" to provoke people engage with an audience and affirm your personality.
Where should fragrance sit on the body?
Anywhere it doesn't hurt.
Are certain notes inherently quieter than others?
Yes, based on the threshold of the materials used as well as the balance to create the fragrance.
Does a fragrance unfold in the way music does?
Yes, you get the lighter notes on top then the more robust ones in the heart and to finish the heaviest ones in the dry down. It's like a symphonic orchestra where all the ingredients are part of a group of instruments.
Does scent move you emotionally, or is it more structural for you?
Yes, emotion is key; without it there is nothing. Smelling interferes with our most primal sense and we must have a reaction good or bad. In the case of a fragrance, we are expecting a positive response.
What other scents — outside of perfume — move you?
Scents are part of everyday life and because I enjoy cooking, I love spending time exploring the smell of all kind of new raw materials.
How would you describe the character of the Gorgeous Nothings fragrance?
A very direct elegant and straight forward smell; simplicity, minimalism for casual luxury.
What kind of presence does it hold?
Warm, sensual, inviting, friendly and long-lasting.
How would you most like to encounter it on someone?
I would love to encounter it on someone in passing or get trapped in the sillage of that person.
What did you hope it might leave behind?
A gorgeous sillage very memorable, addictive and comfortable.
The fragrance places strong emphasis on upcycled materials. Why was that significant from a perfumer’s perspective?
This was a big challenge because to make an analogy, think about a writer who has only half of the letters in the alphabet to write words, sentences for a book.
Did working with upcycled ingredients change how you approached composition?
Yes, because it pushed me out of my comfort zone and forced me to rethink how to formulate.
Do these materials behave differently on skin?
No, they don't. They are as good or even better as traditional ones.
What felt most distinctive about creating this scent?
The universe of the brand, the interaction with the people (always key) Avigon and Lipika, the fact that it's the first one. It's always more exciting to stand at the beginning of a new adventure.
What are you reading at the moment?
The 5 Pillars of Wisdom by Frederic Lenoir.
Are there artists, composers or architects whose work feels close to perfumery?
Rene Lalique sculptor for fragrance bottles, Andy Warhol Pop Art series of Chanel N0 5 bottles, James Turrell light artist designed crystal bottles. Zaha Hadid architect for bottles, Vivaldi, musician the Four Seasons. Debussy musician La Mer ...Overall fragrances are an invisible form of art and can be related to any medium in your imaginary world of perception.
